Registan is the heart of Samarkand and arguably the most famous square in Central Asia. Its name means "a place of sand": this was once the city's main maidan, where six roads converged, royal decrees were read aloud and merchants haggled. The square took its present shape between the 15th and 17th centuries, as three madrasahs rose one after another, their portals facing each other.
Three Madrasahs, Three Eras
On the left stands the Ulugbek Madrasah (1420), built by Tamerlane's grandson, the astronomer on the throne: mosaic stars shine above its portal, and mathematics and theology were once taught inside. Opposite is Sher-Dor ("abode of lions", 1636), with its tigers carrying the sun on their backs — an image almost unheard of in Islamic art. Between them sits Tilya-Kori ("gilded", 1660): step inside to see the domed hall where gold leaf covers the vaults like a continuous carpet.
Walk through all three courtyards: the former hujras — student cells — now house the workshops of ceramists, miniature painters and embroiderers, and bargaining is perfectly acceptable.
Guide's tip: arrive at opening time before the groups do, then come back after sunset for the illumination — the ensemble looks completely different at night. For a panoramic shot, climb the viewing terrace across from the square.